All fantasy film lovers are excited about the opening of Disney’s “Maleficent” starting Angelina Jolie as the Mistress of All Evil. I for one chose to celebrate the launch early, by creating a Maleficent makeup tutorial as worn by Angelina Jolie in the movie. The look will sweep away audiences with beauty and style and will influence villains to come for many years.
On May 30th we’ll have a chance to witness the splendor of this anti-heroin as envisioned by the talented designers and artist involved in creating the look, but until then, I thought you’d want to know more about the work involved and also how to design and apply the Maleficent Makeup, the costume, as well as the horns.
I’ll also tell you more about the special Maleficent makeup collection launched by MAC in honor of this epic movie and hopefully give you all the tools you’ll need to recreate your own Maleficent Makeup and costume for this year’s Halloween.
But before we begin with the hands on step-by-step tutorial on how to achieve Maleficent’s makeup, allow me to trace the steps of the crew in achieving the look, a trail of important facts that have guided me to the final result of this makeup look.
Maleficent Makeup Design
I has intrigued to find out that most of the inspiration of designing the Evil Queen’s appearance came from Angelina Jolie herself, from discussions regarding the way she envisioned the character.
“Angie liked the way Lady Gaga had her makeup done with the triangular forms under the skin,” said seven-time Academy Award®–winning special makeup effects designer Rick Baker. He used prosthetics to achieve Maleficent’s sharp cheekbones, the nose and pointy years to complete Jolie’s look.
Although Baker wanted the action-film character to resemble the animated version as much as possible at first – including the green foundation – in the end they went with something softer, that made Angie look less alien. “Personally, I thought for Angelina Jolie, you didn’t really want to do too much to her. For me, it was maybe horns and ears. I pretty much left her face alone,” says Baker.
However, with Angelina Jolie’s input, the design evolved. As Baker explains for Moviefone.com, “Angelina wanted to wear appliances for Maleficent’s look, so I did a number of designs with appliances that were subtle. She also wanted a nose, which I actually thought could give her more of a Maleficent look. We ended up with numerous sets of cheeks and ears and horns in the beginning stages. First we made sketches and then later we actually sculpted on a cast of her head and made pieces for her to review.”
Baker created silicone cheeks, a nose and ear appliances for Jolie, so that Maleficent’s cheeks look sharply prominent in the film. The appliances were actually very small, less than a quarter of an inch at their thickest points and only about a half inch wide. Placed on the crest of her naturally prominent cheekbones and with the help of a contouring & highlighting technique, the result was breathtaking.
It was important to Rick Baker that all Angelina’s prosthetics conform to the angles of her face, so naturally they took a life cast of her head and formed the rubber cheekbone and ears, by following the contours of the face. The whole application process took about four hours every morning and reportedly, Jolie was very patient with the process.
Contact lenses made the look complete and gave the actress a magical look. Angelina Jolie designed them and an artist hand-painted the lenses.
The look couldn’t be complete without the help of Toni G, Jolie’s personal makeup artist that did her beauty makeup. Toni turned to nature for inspiration in designing the makeup for Maleficent.
She explains that “The story has so much nature involved with it that it definitely triggered more of a look into nature and the browns. With the palette we wanted a combination of colors that could be used in variation, such as Concrete, a grey brown, for more natural contour and a darker brown (Ground) and black (Carbon) to add a dramatic pop to the eye, with a little Goldmine for highlight that would complement the yellow in her contacts.”
You could definitely see the yellow dots on her brow bones, just under the high point of the arch in some of the movie trailers that came out. I think it gave Angie a magical, intriguing touch and clearly had a balancing effect on the whole makeup.
It was important to maintain elements of the classic Maleficent design in the live-action look, so the makeup artist kept the signature red lips. “We tried so many reds; we wanted a true bright red, but it also needed to be the right constancy and be fully pigmented with a dash of shine. I love the color we ultimately picked, so dramatic!”
After the special makeup effects artist applied the prosthetics and did a light fine painting to match the skin, Toni G would begin her work. “We would start in with the beauty and basically highlight the upside down triangle under the eyes to the outside part of the cheeks to the bottom of the nose. Basically the same principle with a normal beauty makeup.”
Besides her prosthetics, her eye makeup helped achieve an animation quality to it. “I was very inspired by the labradorite stone. The Eskimos call it the Aurora because of the dimensional shift in color as the light hits it. Beautiful greens, blues and yellows. She wore very detailed contact lenses painted with these colors. The perfect way to help her feel magical.”
And magical she turned out..
Maleficent Makeup Tutorial
I can begin to describe how excited I am to see Disney’s Maleficent version in cinemas and see the many wonderful costumes and makeup looks up close and personal. Until I get the chance to really admire the work of the talented makeup artist Toni G and prosthetic master Rick Baker, I had to pull my efforts and create a Maleficent Makeup Tutorial of my own.
I’ll give you my step-by-step process, from designing the prosthetic appliances to application and beauty makeup. Hope you like the finished look and try the makeup for yourself. It’s awesome to recreate and plenty of fun to walk around with high cheekbones like Maleficent’s.
Because I have quite a round face, in order to achieve the prominent cheekbones, I had to design prosthetic appliances that were somewhat bigger than those wore by Angelina Jolie as Maleficent.
I started out by sculpting the cheeks out of Chavant Le Beau Touche clay (plasteline) onto a previously made plaster cast of my face. After I was satisfied with how they turned out, I sealed the surface with baby oil and coated the clay and the surrounding area with a fine layer of plaster mix and poured the rest of the plaster, shaking to release air bubbles. Eventually you want a mold at least 3/4″ or 20mm thick.
Once the plaster set, I removed it carefully and was left with the negative copy of the cheekbones. I then had to use a filler to achieve the positive copy – the fake cheekbones themselves.
Casting the gelatin
I used gelatin instead of silicone to make the prosthetic pieces, as this was available to me at the time being. Compared to silicone, the gelatin is softer, translucent and cheaper, yet less resilient to heat and movement. If you have the choice, choose silicone, as it is also easier with this product to make the edges invisible.
I poured gelatin in the negative copy of the cheekbone that I previously covered in Vaseline and refined the edges, making them as thin as possible. Once the product dried, I dusted a layer of powder on top of it and carefully peel the appliance out of the mold using a brush to apply talcum powder on the inside, as you go.
Applying the prosthetic piece
Once you remove the piece, trim the excess edges of you piece and you’re ready to apply it. I used liquid latex, but you can also use Pros Aide if you have it handy. Apply a thin layer onto the piece, as well as the area where you want to place it. Allow the glue to dry and become sticky and only afterwards you can apply the piece to the desired area.
You can blend the edges of the piece using Witch Hazel, an astringent that melts gelatin seamlessly onto the skin or use a brush or a cotton swab with warm-to-hot water to accomplish the same effect.
Contouring & highlighting beauty makeup
Once the prosthetic pieces are applied, you can move on to the beauty makeup. Apply the foundation, than use a contouring & highlighting technique to further emphasize the look and bring out those cheekbones.
Use a concealer in a shade lighter than that of your skin tone under the eye, creating a triangle shape from the inner corner of the eye, to the to the side of your nostrils blended all the way to towards the temple.
Underneath the volume of the cheekbone, following your sculpt, use a darker shade of foundation or concealer to make the piece stand out. Blend the colors together to get a natural-looking effect and set everything with a loose powder.
Apply a highlighter to the high points of the cheekbones, right under the eye area and a bronzing powder where you did your contouring. I didn’t use blush, in order to make contrast between the light and the shadow even more striking.
Eyebrows have to look perfect and well arched, to add a touch of drama and a mischievous look to the character makeup. I used a gel liner from MUFE to contour them.
Maleficent Eye Makeup Tutorial
Moving on to the eye makeup, I opted for a more intense look from what Angelina Jolie is wearing in the action-film, something that resembled the Maleficent we all know and love from the animation. Inspired by the eye shadow palette MAC launched I used grey (Concrete), black (Carbon) and brown (Ground Brown) to emphasize the shape of the eye and the socket line.
Next, I applied a purple eye shadow with sparkles on the lid, the lower lash line, as well as the brow bone that looks pretty darn similar to the Mineralize Eye Shadow in #My Dark Magic that you’ll find in the Maleficent collection at MAC.
Alas, I used a liquid eyeliner to emphasize the eyes, plenty of mascara and some false lashes to complete the look.
Maleficent’s Perfect Red Lips Tutorial
The statement Maleficent red lips can be achieved easily, using a lip pencil and a cool-toned red lipstick. Follow the red lip tutorial below to learn how to achieve more volume – the Angelina Jolie pout effect.
And there you have it! The final look, complete with prosthetic pieces and beauty makeup, as worn by Angelina Jolie in Maleficent. Sorry I didn’t have the time or the skills to do the horns and add to the drama, but I hope these step-by-step explanations inspire you to go all the way with your costume preparations.
Maleficent Horns Design
My first thought about designing the Maleficent horns was to use cardboard to trace the shape and wrap it in leather strips. Naturally, when turning his attention t the horns, Rick Baker had other ideas.
“The horns were one of the big issues because no one would want to walk around all day with big horns on his or her head,” relates Baker. “So, I wanted to make them as lightweight as possible and removable because when you have something that sticks out a foot beyond your head and you’re not used to it, you’re apt to run into things.”
Baker and his team sculpted at least four different designs of horns. “I did some drawings and modeled some of the designs for the horns on the computer,” says Baker. “Then we actually ended up sculpting them. We chose the one that we liked the best and did all the work using that one design.”
For comfort, the horns are very lightweight and thin, and made of urethane casting resin. “After much experimentation, we ended up basically with a maxi-form skullcap that had on it the base of the horns and the first inch or so of the horns,” explains Baker. ‘The rest of the horns stuck on with a magnet. They were very strong magnets that held them in place but we could then pop them off in between shots.”
The magnets also protected Angelina Jolie while engaged in wire work or performing stunts. “If something crossed over or bumped they would disconnect easily,” says Baker. “But because of that, we had to make many duplicates because if they fell, they would break. We also had a stunt version of the horns that were more rubbery, so that they would not hurt anybody.
It was a lot of experimentation on how to keep them affixed to her head and how to make them seamlessly removable. Fortunately, the horns had a sculpted texture of lines, like a growth line basically, so that made really good connection points. We probably made at least 20 sets of horns of different types and replacements.”
“There’s python skin, some very fine leather and some fish skin, and it’s all based on being quite clean and simple silhouettes with a wrapping technique that looks like it’s just twisted and wrapped around the head in an easy way,” he concludes.
Maleficent Costume Design
Costume designer Anna B. Sheppard was tasked with creating two very different worlds, one with creatures living in a forest fairyland and the other a human kingdom. Sheppard began her process with research that guided her from the 15th century to the Renaissance period of French and Italian art, including paintings, sketches and sculptures.
“Maleficent’s costumes evolved from mossy colors and ‘floaty” fabrics to become dark and sculptural shapes in much heavier fabrics with lots of volume,” explains Sheppard. Artificial furs, leather and feathered accessories created by the specialty designers were used to form a much darker and sinister-looking character.”
A huge part of the look were the high colars and the cape, elements that sell the Maleficent iconic look. If you want to become this character for Halloween or for a theme party, my suggestion would be to focus on these elements, create the horns with whatever means you have and strive to achieve the Maleficent makeup we all know and love, as worn by Angelina Jolie.
Hope you’ll share your thoughts on the Maleficent makeup tutorial in the comments section and definitely try this gorgeous villain makeup for yourself. Enjoy!