Kojic acid - treatment for dark spots, acne and freckles

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Kojic acid is commonly used in cosmetic products as a skin whitening or depigmenting agent in concentrations of 1%. It is commonly used in leave-on creams, anti-aging creams and lotions, around-eye creams, facial cleansers, which are generally applied to the face, but can also be used in body moisturizers and sunscreens.

Kojic acid is a by-product in the fermentation process of malting rice, for use in the manufacturing of sake, the Japanese rice wine. It is a fungal metabolite commonly produced by many species of Aspergillus, Acetobacter and Penicillium, and has been shown to act as a competitive and reversible inhibitor of animal and plant polyphenol oxidases, that catalyzes the conversion of tyrosine to melanin.Kojic acid inhibits melonasis by interfering with the uptake of oxygen required for enzymatic browning.

What this means is that its main purpose is to treat hyperpigmentation, which occurs when areas of the skin develop too much melanin. To understand its effects, it is necessary to process some information about how the skin gets its color.

Kojic acid vs. dark spots

Kojic acid vs. dark spots

The body naturally produces a pigment known as melanin through specialized cells known as melanocytes. Our genes produce the same amount of melanin, but how much of it gets processed determines our skin color. In people with fair skin, only small amounts of melanin are processed by melanocytes, while larger amount of the pigment are made by the cells of those with dark complexions.

Moreover, the production of melanin does not occur in fixed amounts. The production is increased in response to environmental or internal conditions such as: sun exposure (causing the skin to tan), inflammations (common among acne sufferers) and pregnancy.

Repeated exposure to the sun can result in a permanent increase in melanin production in spots on the skin, causing small freckles and larger sun or age spots to form. And here is where the Kojic acid comes in handy.

Kojic acid brightens complexions

Kojic acid brightens complexions

Benefits of Kojic acid

When kojic acid is applied to the skin in concentrated amounts, the chemicals in the ingredient work on the melanocytes, interfering with the production of melanin.

In addition to its skin-lightening abilities, kojic acid is classified as an antioxidant. This class of nutrients has the ability to counteract the effects of particles in the air called free radicals, which have the potential to cause oxidative damage to the skin cells.

By limiting the effects of free radicals, kojic acid helps to prevent the formation of signs of aging that occur when the cells that produce the skin’s vital structural proteins become damaged.

Kojic acid is also an antibacterial agent, meaning that it interferes with the processes that bacteria cells must perform to thrive and reproduce. By disrupting these processes, kojic acid causes the death of bacteria.

Some dermatologists recommend the use of mild concentrations of kojic acid for addressing acne blemishes, which are often caused by bacterial infections in the pores.

Kojic acid vs. freckles

Kojic acid vs. freckles

Kojic acid side effects

Since the discovery of kojic acid, conflicting studies have been reported about the long-term safety of the ingredient. Upon re-examination of the available data for Kojic Acid, its use as a whitening agent at a concentration of 1.0 % in leave-on creams, when applied to face or body is safe for the consumer.

It should, however, be noticed that whenever human skin barrier is disturbed, as is for example the case after peelings, or application to larger skin surfaces are involved, the use of Kojic Acid is not considered to be safe.

As far as the derivatives of Kojic Acid are concerned (e.g. esters of Kojic Acid, Kojic Acid dipalmitate, Kojic Acid isopalmitate and chloro-Kojic Acid),), the SCCS did not receive any data, meaning that no conclusion can be drawn on the safety of the derivatives.

However, it is known that there are products on the market containing Kojic acid at concentrations higher than 1%, therefore should you use skin care products that inform you about the containing amount, you should be aware of the risks:

  • Skin irritation

Skin irritation is the most common kojic acid side effect. However, the amount of kojic acid in skincare products is usually not enough to trigger irritation, unless the user has especially sensitive skin. Furthermore, some kojic acid products contain topical corticosteroids to counter any potential irritation.

  • Allergic Contact Dermatitis

Even if kojic acid does not initially irritate the skin, there’s a danger of developing allergic contact dermatitis with continued regular use. You should discontinue use if you note side effects such as red rash or bumps, itching, pain, blisters and dry, red patches of skin.

Do you prefer Kojic acid to hydroquinone? Tell me your thoughts on this in the comment section below.

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