Cut Crease Makeup – Tutorial for Hooded, Deep Set or Small Eyes

Don’t you just love a gorgeous makeup look that can also compliment your eye shape? The Cut Crease makeup is a popular style for those with deep set, hooded or small eyes, as well as other eye shapes. This graphic eye look will define your eyes beautifully, make your eyes appear bigger and help you achieve a professional look for a special event.

This is a style for the advanced makeup enthusiast, it does take some practice to master and should not be attempted blindly. The glamorous cut crease eye makeup is one of those techniques that require the instructions of a professional, so if you want to learn how to achieve it, watch the Cut Crease Makeup tutorial I did for you guys.

The technique is used to give the eyes a really dramatic, defined crease. It implies the use of a strong contrast between the light shades on the lids and the dark ones in the crease, which fade on the brow bone. The Cut Crease is a graphic eye makeup, that still has a smoky component to it, so it does take some makeup skills to achieve. However, done right, the look is pure glamor, as I’m sure you’ve seen in magazines a million times.

What I also love about the Cut Crease or Banana Makeup, as some of you might know it, is that there are many different options in achieving the look. The style and shape of the crease line you create depends solely on the wearer’s features and her eye shape.

For example, if you have small eyes, the graphic line you draw on the crease will have to be slightly curvier, in order to make your eyes appear bigger and achieve a doll-eye effect.

For deep set eyes, with protruding brow arches as well as for hooded eyes, the crease line you draw should be above the natural one, to balance your features and optically distort the volumes. If you have one of these eye shapes, keep your eyes open when applying the crease shade, as this helps you create the illusion of a crease. This tip also comes in handy when you are dealing with an asymmetric eye shape.

Cut Crease Makeup Tutorial

Cut Crease Makeup Tutorial

Brushes are your key ingredients in creating such a makeup. For the crease try a small, flat and firm brush like and for blending use small blending brushes as well as fluffy dome brushes to achieve the perfect smoky effect.

In terms of shades, you can choose to do the Cut Crease Makeup however you feel like, however I recommend that you keep lighter shades on the lid and darker ones in the crease. This style looks great done with neutral shades, as well as bold, beautiful colors.  The choice is up to you.

The Cut Crease makeup can also make your eyes look more elongated and add a sexy vibe to your look. This is a stunning evening makeup, that you can wear on a special occasion, on your wedding day, at parties and special events.

This one is worth learning, so I figured it should be useful to teach you some of the tricks of achieving the look by creating a Cut Crease makeup tutorial. Follow closely and you’ll learn the technique in no time!

Cut Crease Makeup Tutorial step-by-step

We’ll start off by prepping the skin using MakeUp ForEver HD foundation and an under eye concealer to brighten the area and hide dark circles. I then apply Diorskin Forever powder,  contour the cheekbones using Caudalie Teint Divin bronzing powder and use a pink shimmery blush from MAC.

Fill in your eyebrows as you usually do. I’m using MUFE’s Waterproof Aqua Brow. Next we can move on to the eye makeup.

First, prep & prime your lids using your favorite eye primer. I’m using a MAC PaintPot, a cream eye shadow base in a neutral shade of beige, called Bare Study.

Next, apply a shimmery white pigment with golden sparkles on the entire lid. I’m using Ben Nye’s White Gold Eye Shadow. To further emphasize the eye color and bring some color into the makeup, you can use a golden peach pigment from the center to the outside corners of the eyes. I’m using MAC’s Melon pigment.

Eyeliner Cat Eye

Eyeliner Cat Eye

Trace the perfect winged line, starting from the inner corners of the eyes. Extend that line to create a cat eye effect and in doing so, you will map out the  outer corner of your crease.

Using the same eyeliner brush, begin to map out the crease line with your choice of gel, liquid or pencil eyeliner.  The intensity and shape of the line I draw next will influence the final look of my makeup.

Using your natural crease line as a guide is the easiest way to do this, however I  recommend this method only to those of you with almond shaped, symmethrical eyes.  By making the line curvier, you will achieve a doll-eye effect, which will flatter those with small eyes.

Cut Crease Makeup

Cut Crease Makeup

Tracing the line above the natural crease is recommended if you have deep set eyes, like I do. You will also have to create a “fake” crease if you have hooded eyes.

First, map out your shape, by dotting your eyeliner brush on your brow bone, then go over it and make it stronger. Make the line thicker towards the outer corner, and use less pressure toward the inner corner to make the liner thinner and lighter.

Before the liner dries, blend it out slowly and gently with dome brush. Blend upwards toward the outer corner. You want the bottom line to stay crisp, but your crease color to be well blended. If you couldn’t do it using eyeliner, don’t sweat it. We can fix it using eye shadows.

Cut Crease Eyeliner Makeup

Cut Crease Eyeliner Makeup

Go over the liner and just above with a shadow color of your choice. Blend further toward the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Add some of your crease color underneath the lower lash line.

I used a chocolaty brown shade above the eyeliner, and because I have plenty of space on my brow bone, I also blended in a burgundy shade and a coppery shimmery shade right under the eyebrows.

With a fluffy dome brush, blend out the colors together until you achieve a smoky eye effect.

When I’m pleased with how my Cut Crease Makeup turned out, I apply a MUFE Star Powder white shimmery pigment on the center of the lid, on the inner corners of the eyes and below the high point of the arch.

Instead of adding too much unnecessary drama to this makeup, I replace the black kohl liner with a natural beige concealer pencil, that will brighten the look. Try applying it by using a Q tip to gently pull the lower lid downwards.

Makeup for deep set eyes

Makeup for deep set eyes

Give your eyelashes a good curl and apply two coats of mascara. I’m using L’Oreal Million Lashes Mascara. Falsies are optional, but they look really nice with this makeup.

Finally, apply a neutral pink lip pencil on the entire surface and a bright pink, creamy lipstick to soften the look.

And there you have it, a stunning eye makeup,  using all neutral shades that will compliment any eye color and skin tone. It does take practice, but done correctly, you’ll achieve a beautiful, well defined eye makeup. Let me know what you think in the comments section below, give this tutorial a thumbs up if you liked it and share it on Facebook.

I hope you loved learning a different and may I say easier technique for the Cut Crease Makeup. I promise there will be more easy makeup tutorials to come suitable for every eye shape. If you have any requests, feel free to leave them in the comments section.



As a professional make-up artist and beauty enthusiast, Luiza's expertise has become highly prized over the years. As owner of this site, she set her mind to create a publication for those who are focused not just on beauty trends and popular brands, but also on the industry's most well-kept secrets.

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